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Tourist town at the tip of Baja California, Mexico keeps rocking, in a good way

By LUAINE LEE
McClatchy-Tribune News Service
Published: Monday, Jan. 3, 2011 - 5:06 am

CABO SAN LUCAS, Mexico - While the rest of Mexico is in turmoil, the good times keep on rollin' at Cabo San Lucas.

Landing at the tourist destination at the very southern tip of Baja California, it seems like you're in a parallel world. Here's an Applebee's, a downtown mall, a Home Depot and pristine beaches as far as you can see.

With only 4 percent unemployment, Cabo is safe compared to much of the rest of the country. And there are myriads of recreational activities, from snorkeling with the dolphins to zip lining over the foamy waves of the Sea of Cortez, but there also are unexplored areas to visit.

Highlights could be a jaunt to the quaint town of Todos Santos, about 45 miles from Cabo and the location of the Eagles' song "Hotel California." Or, even better, take a back-country trip down rough river beds and dirt roads that are frequented by burros, cows, goats, chipmunks, snakes, iguanas, pigs, horses and exotic birds like the peregrine, Mexican hawk and eagle.

One such trail - the old road to La Paz - passes the tiny village of La Calenderia, the home of 75 people who enjoy electricity only twice a day - two hours in the morning and two hours at night. The neighborhood was offered a full-time connection but refused, reportedly arguing that it would seduce the children into watching television all day.

In this town sits an immaculate little church, profuse plumeria trees and friendly residents.

If you take one of these side trips you'll need a sturdy crossover utility vehicle like the Mitsubishi Outlander Sport or the KIA Sportage to make it through the sand traps and Mars-like terrain.

Of the 110 species of cactus on the peninsula, you'll easily spot the elephant, barrel and nopal cactus, the honey Manzanita, used for grilling, and the giant fig with its massive roots.

Cabo is famous for its party times. And you can do that until you drop from exhaustion. The "in" places to go include the Pink Kitty, Mandala, Baja Jonkie, Cabo Wabo (owned by rocker Sammy Hagar), Passion Club at the ME Cabo hotel on Medano Beach, the Office, known for its daytime beach parties, and Squid Roe. Most of these clubs don't solicit a cover charge. The places start rocking around 11 p.m.

There's great Mexican food here, especially seafood. Not only is Cabo a popular sport fishing venue, the fish served at local restaurants is superb. For Mexican fare try the medium-priced La Fonda. For fine dining there's La Frida, and a local favorite is Mariscos Mazatlan for an inexpensive evening out.

There are dozens of great golf courses (not for the beginner) that stretch along the emerald coastline. One of the favorites is Palmilla at the Palmilla Resort, 25 minutes from Cabo. (800) 637-2226.

Another less rugged trek is the trip north on Highway 1 to Buena Vista, where the sea views are beautiful and the beaches are vacant.

This road (which serves the airport) is a toll road, 28 pesos per car, and along this route you'll cross over the Tropic of Cancer.

Hotels cluster along the coastline, the closer to the southern tip of Baja (known as Land's End) the better. For top service and accommodations try the ME Cabo, right on the sea with a fabulous view of the famous granitic arch and rugged outcrops that define Land's End. Prices run from $190 to $1,800, depending on the season (me.cabo@solmelia.com). The Costa Costa Azul runs $175 to $245, the Westin Resort & Spa starts at $165.

A trip to the rocky formations is recommended. Accessible by water taxi or small boats, the bay side is fine for swimming, but the water is too rough to negotiate on the Pacific side.


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In this article the rumor about the Eagles writing Hotel California in Todo Santos lives on.

Never happened.

History buffs have said that a man in town claims to have started the rumor that became legend, in the early 80's - and for purely selfish reasons. He says the town was so unknown, so lacking in tourists or business that he felt compelled to do something to stir things up. He was in the real estate business and there weren't any buyers around to sell to. So he says he dreamed the "Eagles" thing up right out of thin air. There weren't many takers for an urban legend either, but by the time the hotel was open again as Hotel California in the late 80's, the legend had begun to grow. The story was told to anyone who would listen that this indeed was the HOTEL CALIFORNIA. That the Eagles had stayed there. That Don Henley had written the song right here, while renting a room for $2/night, sleeping in a hammock. And to further the effect, the song played over the barroom stereo into the streets. Why it had to be true, didn't it?

That is the Beverly Hills Hotel on the album cover...

Originally Posted by BajaGringo

That is the Beverly Hills Hotel on the album cover...

Good eye!

On November 25, 2007 Don Henley appeared on the TV news show 60 Minutes, where he was told, "everyone wants to know what this song means." Henley replied: "I know, it's so boring. It's a song about the dark underbelly of the American Dream, and about excess in America which was something we knew about."

Don Henley: "We were all middle-class kids from the Midwest. Hotel California was our interpretation of the high life in Los Angeles."

Even the original owners of Hotel California went under, despite their constant claim that they were connected to the Eagles. The good news is that in recent years it has been renovated and makes a very interesting place to stay.

I read somewhere that members of The Eagles have since visited the BCS hotel, probably part of what has further promoted the myth...

Dunno. Been through Todos a number of times recently, but just didn't stop there. So, I really don't know if they are still playing Eagles songs. Just do know that they have upgraded the public areas.

We haven't been through Todos Santos in about 10 years. Need to get back through there to check out the improvements. Spent the night at the Hotel California back then. There was a great restaurant called "Restaurante Carlos" or something like that. Dirt floor... great place. Carlos was from originally from Ensenada... He sat with us at our table and showed me how to squeeze every drop of meat out of a shrimp. You have to pinch it out at the end.. It was great.

Originally Posted by Bob H

We haven't been through Todos Santos in about 10 years. Need to get back through there to check out the improvements. Spent the night at the Hotel California back then. There was a great restaurant called "Restaurante Carlos" or something like that. Dirt floor... great place. Carlos was from originally from Ensenada... He sat with us at our table and showed me how to squeeze every drop of meat out of a shrimp. You have to pinch it out at the end.. It was great.

Ha! "You have to pinch it out at the end". I am 57 years old and just learned something new about my favorite food. Makes great sense, that pinching. Thanks 4 that Bob. I shall be thinking of you each time I pinch the tail of a shrimp :-)

We spent a night in Todos Santos in November, and it has changed a lot since we were last there 6 or so years ago. The "pit fall" sidewalks have been replaced with smooth and even ones, and they have even installed wheelchair ramps (at a 6:12 pitch, but still...).

The Hotel California (the Eagles have said that they've never been there) is now totally renovated, and was packed with tourists, mostly in the Hotel California Gift Tienda.

I think that the town is a good place to stop, if you're going south, to prepare yourself for the chaos of Los Cabos, and if you're driving north, to congratulate yourself on not having accidentally bought a timeshare while asking for directions to the best fish store.

Originally Posted by Bob H

We haven't been through Todos Santos in about 10 years. Need to get back through there to check out the improvements. Spent the night at the Hotel California back then. There was a great restaurant called "Restaurante Carlos" or something like that. Dirt floor... great place. Carlos was from originally from Ensenada... He sat with us at our table and showed me how to squeeze every drop of meat out of a shrimp. You have to pinch it out at the end.. It was great.

Ten years? Get ready for a surprise. Amazing amount of growth and improvement, including the area South through Pescadero. And, the road from La Paz is four lanes all the way.

Or you could just fry the shrimp in butter and garlic and eat the entire thing...