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Old 12-27-12, 01:48 PM   #1
TacosDePescado
 
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Default Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

but feel free to talk me down.

My relocation from northern California to Ensenada is proceeding. I found a great place, I get along with the owner, he's introduced me to a lot of people, I have the beginning of a little community to support my new life. It's all wonderful. Planning to move down next month.

I'd gotten used to the mil checkpoints. I understand that they keep the bad guys out of Ensenada and I'm up to speed on the 70,000 deaths and the American money that fuels the narco wars and all that. I'd made my peace with the checkpoints. Especially since so far they just look me over (60+, Gringo, obvious tourist/expat) and wave me on.

Except today. I was on my way home from a visit. At the checkpoint just north of the first toll booth an older, tough-looking soldier came up to my window and literally barked at me in rapid Spanish, pointing towards the back of my car. I did not understand a word he said but his tone left no doubt that if I didn't comply there would be trouble. I timidly asked, "Did you want me to open my trunk?" He growled, "Trunk!" I guess he knew that word. I popped my trunk.

Meanwhile to my right, near the front of the car, was a soldier casually holding his weapon. I assume those things are fully-automatic military grade weapons, is that right?

Now trust me I have perspective. Normally I see one of these 18 year old fresh-from-the-village kids with the big guns and they don't frighten me, they're just kids.

But this particular guy by my car seemed malevolent. He held his gun casually and never looked at me. Pretended to not be intimidating me while doing a most excellent job of intimidating me; while the older guy rummaged, and I mean rummaged, through my trunk. In an instant I felt like I was living in a scene from the movie Salvador.

Now, was I tripping? It's possible. Maybe the gruff guy is really the sweetest guy in the world once you get to know him; and his gun-toting assistant was actually daydreaming of the girl he left in Oaxaca, and barely knew I was there.

Fine, I'll grant you that.

But what happens the day that one of these guys sees something in my trunk or in my car that he doesn't like? Something I thought was legal but isn't. Something somebody planted there -- I've heard those stories. Or hell, some contraband of my own. I'll tell you that I did an experiment once and it took me less than five minutes to score some pretty good Mexican brickweed in the Zona Turistica. I didn't really care about the weed but I wanted to see how easy it was. It was very easy.

So what happens when the next gruff Army guy finds a seed or a twig? That Mex brickweed has lots of seeds and twigs!

And then later crossing the border, the American border patrol guy asked me to pop my trunk. At least he didn't have an assistant standing by with a military grade weapon. And then I thought, what if the Army guys put something *IN* my trunk? Wouldn't be unheard of, would it?

I don't think I want to live like this. Like that guy with the shotgun one inch too long or short and they threw him in a notorious prison filled with narco thugs, and chained him to his bed.

Then I read that the Ensenada city council actually opposes the checkpoints outside the city. They say it frightens the tourists. Please consider me a tourist who got frightened. Couldn't the Army at least see to it that if a soldier's going to bark at an obvious Gringo, that they could at least assign someone to bark and snarl in English?

Now like I say, PLEASE TALK ME DOWN. I love Mexico. I love Mexicans. My new landlord has already adopted me as a member of his family. I love the little house on a hill that he wants to rent me. I'm all packed and ready to go.

But am I or some other tourist/expat about to become collateral damage in the war between the city and the army?

Any and all advice or insight welcome. I really want to move to Ensenada but I don't like people growling at me in Spanish and then searching my trunk on command while an armed guard reminds me of my total lack of rights.

Peace, and thanks much for listening.

Last edited by TacosDePescado; 12-27-12 at 02:04 PM.
Old 12-27-12, 02:09 PM   #2
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

A few points. . ..

I traveled yesterday (26th Dec) from S.D. to Ensenada and it looked like the military checkpoints are being removed. I understand that the new Prez in Mex wants to put the army back in the barracks and when I drove by yesterday it looked like that was happening.

The only checkpoint was north of the Tollbooth. The soldier asked me a question and when I replied in broken Spanish he quickly lost interest in me.

On the other hand, one thing to consider is that often times busts are made on the basis of tip-offs to the authorities. Often times those calling in the tips are the competition, i.e. other drug dealers working with the competition. So as long as you don't fit any profile, then I think that you'd be ok.

If both the Mex. Army and the US CBP wanted to see your trunk, then I'd suggest examining the image you are projecting or else chalk it up to really bad luck.

On another note, I can strongly recommend getting a Sentri pass. Very short lines to get across the border and nobody (normally) wants to look in the trunk. I would suggest that seeing a Sentri sticker might also help with an inspection in Mexico, but that would suggest a level of co-operation and sophistication that may not be present.
Old 12-27-12, 02:14 PM   #3
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

I'd be curious to hear if others have had this same issue. Military checkpoints have made a big difference in terms of security. But what experience do people have with them?
Old 12-27-12, 02:30 PM   #4
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Over the years I have driven all over Main Land Mexico and numerous times down Baja.
I can assure you there are check points every where.

I have run into the situations your talking about and had the soldier on the passenger side piont his weapon in my direction.

Yes it is a very uncomfortable situation.

I get trough it by knowing "I have nothing to hide therefore all will be OK".

Note: My spanish is s little bit better now because I am trying to learn but it is not enough to carry a conversation.

My suggestion is relax and enjoy.
If your trips are few and far between then this one situation is a new experince. :)
Or as bwall said, if your going to be going back and regularly then the sentry pass my help.
Old 12-27-12, 03:37 PM   #5
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

If you are having cold feet about your move to Ensenada, now is the time I suppose. Before I moved to Rosarito I didn't have my head wrapped around the differences in daily life from the USA to Mexico. Checkpoints are normal and seeing serious weaponry aimed in your direction by kids is unnerving at first- you either get used to it or you don't. You ran into a sourpuss having a bad day and a passive/aggressive soldier who was probably sick of being paired with that guy all day. If they had wanted to make your day as bad as theirs, they would and could have. They could have easily planted a pocket knife or drugs. But it probably never occurred to them to treat a non-Spanish speaking tourist like you different that they do the driver of a Mexican car they were interested in. They are focused.

I'll level with you. My perspective only. I didn't know much about Mexico when I moved down here while Baja was still booming in 2006. I loved to surf Baja in the 80's and that image of the past was stuck in my head. When things started to go bad in the security department- the ex-pats started bailing out. Today there are just 1,624 expats living in Baja- down 79% from the peak. You would think that number of expats leaving would cause Mexico to change things to make it more safe and a better place to invest, but apparently that is out of their control. Yet Baja still has a full time ad campaign to entice people like you to move down here. A dollar is a dollar to them. They have done little in the past 6 years to make this area a better tourist draw, a good tourist value or a safe place to invest. The new INM rules that require about $2300 a month in guaranteed income to live here will drive the lower income ex-pats underground too. That's not good.

You tip-toed around the drug thing with your brick and sticks/seeds comment. You can have 6 grams of pot with you for your personal use in Mexico. If you get caught three times they send you to rehab. So although you will not be jailed for a month for a few seeds it will ruin your day as they have to take you in and register the offense.
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Last edited by Woooosh; 12-27-12 at 03:48 PM.
Old 12-27-12, 05:02 PM   #6
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Been running up and down the pennisula for 13 years and never had a problem with the military stops. But then again I have never had a reason to worry. I think that makes the difference. These guys are doing a job that is generally funded by the U.S. government to try to stop drugs from entering the states, and stop guns fron being in Mexico. They have never done or said anything that made me or my family the least bit "threatened". If they are making you feel threatened you might consider the image you are projecting. Stay legal and enjoy this wonderful country. There are many thousands of expats living on the baja and the majority feel safe. Those that have been here/lived here & believe it is not safe are in a very small minority, and they probably caused a problem creating an unsafe envirnment.

Happy Trails
Old 12-27-12, 05:36 PM   #7
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

...sorry to hear of your understandable discomfort....I'm contemplating the same move you have undertaken. How did you find your new place in Ensenada ? What about your stuff, are you starting all over ? ... thanx ... Denis !!!
Old 12-27-12, 07:04 PM   #8
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woooosh
I'll level with you. My perspective only. I didn't know much about Mexico when I moved down here while Baja was still booming in 2006. I loved to surf Baja in the 80's and that image of the past was stuck in my head. When things started to go bad in the security department- the ex-pats started bailing out. Today there are just 1,624 expats living in Baja- down 79% from the peak. You would think that number of expats leaving would cause Mexico to change things to make it more safe and a better place to invest, but apparently that is out of their control. Yet Baja still has a full time ad campaign to entice people like you to move down here. A dollar is a dollar to them. They have done little in the past 6 years to make this area a better tourist draw, a good tourist value or a safe place to invest. The new INM rules that require about $2300 a month in guaranteed income to live here will drive the lower income ex-pats underground too. That's not good.
Woooosh, what's your data source for your numbers? I'd guess that the TJ to Ensenada corridor alone has more than that many expat residents. I know that the number is over 6,000 in the La Paz area alone.

Sometime after the 2010 census, I recall that Kate posted either data or a link that gave visibility of non-Mexican resident numbers by area. I just wasted 30 minutes trying to Google the 2010 census data....to no avail! Without a more credible source than my gut instinct, I respectfully suggest that you might wanna put a little distance between you & the eggnog bowl!

If my head cold clogged brain allows, I'll TRY to remember to ask INM when I go back in to check on my FM2 renewal status next week.
Old 12-27-12, 08:04 PM   #9
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

My experience with the military checkpoints is probably a lot like my experience at the border with CBP. You get all types of personalities; mostly nice but some seem to have zero social skills while others may just be having a bad day. Overall, I really like having the military so visible own here and have never minded when they ask to search my vehicle.

My advise is to just stay cool, be polite and have a little empathy - these guys down here aren't making enough money for the job they are performing under some difficult (and dangerous) conditions.

If you are simply a tourist or expat living down here, that should become obvious after they do a routine search of your car and in minutes you will be on your way.

It's one of the prices we pay for this war on drugs...
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Old 12-28-12, 10:45 AM   #10
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

My wife and I have been driving up and down Baja (to Loreto) about 4 times a year for the past six or seven years. The military checkpoints have always been a non-issue for us although, I'll admit at first they can be a little intimidating. If you are going to live in a foreign country, I think you have an obligation to at least attempt to learn the native language. We always greet the soldiers in Spanish and I always have the rear windows rolled down so they can easily see inside the car. We do keep an eye on them as they go through the car just to keep them honest. I do look at these stops as an unnecessary prolongation of our trips but it's their country and if we want to be here, we have to play by their rules. I guess I would feel better about them if I thought that they actually did something to stop the guns and drugs from moving.
Old 12-28-12, 12:37 PM   #11
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Must be a hot topic somewhere this week... I also got a PM about the 1,624 number of expats in Rosarito. The number of expats in all of Baja is down to 3,277 a 74% reduction. That is the number registered with the INM which keeps the data of all visas issued. If you can prove there are more ex-pats here than the Mexican gov't says there are- have at it. Fulano did a San Diego Reader blog on this recently: "The Myth of 14,000 expats living in Rosarito"

Mythbusters: Are there 14,000 expatriates living in Rosarito? |

Posted on January 23, 2012

“About 14,000 expatriates call Rosarito home.” - http://www.rosarito.org

One cannot look at any brochure or webpage touting the benefits of living in Playas de Rosarito, Baja California, Mexico without seeing the statement that 14,000 expatriates call it home. Sometimes as many as 20,000 expatriates are mentioned. This figure has been repeated so often, that it is just taken for granted.

But is that the real number of expatriates living in Rosarito. No way! Not even close.

Mexico’s Instituto Nacional de Migracion (INM), which is the National Immigration Institute, is the federal body in Mexico which grants immigrant and non-immigrant visas to foreigners and keeps track of them. The INM keeps very good records, and they are public, much like the US Census data is public.

At the end of 2009, INM reported that there were only 1,624 registered foreigners living in Playas de Rosarito with some kind of an immigration visa. That’s it. 1,624.

Far from expanding, the expatriate community in Baja California is shrinking rapidly. At the end on 2009, INM reported there were only 13,948 foreigners registered with the INM in the entire state of Baja California. By August, 2011, the number of foreigners registered had shrunk to only 3,277 soles… a 76% reduction in two years.


The 2012 INM report is now out... Sintesis2012.pdf
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Last edited by Woooosh; 12-28-12 at 01:16 PM.
Old 12-28-12, 12:54 PM   #12
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandlefoot
Those that have been here/lived here & believe it is not safe are in a very small minority, and they probably caused a problem creating an unsafe environment. Happy Trails
Sadly, the times have changed, especially in the last three or so years. You can't expect to not be a victim just because you aren't involved with drugs or the people who do. The owner of this board has not posted about his "incident" two years ago- but suffice it to say he and his wife did nothing to be beaten, throat slashed and left for dead in San Quintin. I appreciate those who love Baja wanting to project a positive image, but let's keep it real. If it can happen to Ron and Cristina- it can happen to anyone. It's a shame, but that is the truth.

I found a womans leg on the beach in Rosarito just two weeks ago. They found more of her on the beach last week. Not good. I don't harp on the negatives, but I'm not likely to let things get whitewashed or have innocent people blamed for being victims.
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Old 12-28-12, 02:54 PM   #13
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woooosh

let's keep it real.


Really. It burns my ass when people only see what they want to see, then tell the world that's the way it is. It's amazing how some can give an evaluation of an area when they can't even understand the lingo, written or spoken.
I usually send them to Maggie's place. [She's back, by the way]
Old 12-28-12, 05:13 PM   #14
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

It is a fine line to walk. Many posters have business interests in Baja and I understand their wanting to put a positive spin on everything. They have no choice- they are locked into Baja. I get that, but balance is healthy. On a good day, Maggie does a great job translating news that makes it into the local papers.

The same people and newspapers that are touting how safe Baja is today, never accepted the very nasty period we went through. Not even when it was happening. Bodies were hanging off bridges in Rosarito and no one thought that was a problem tourists should be concerned with. That may be true statistically, but it was and still is a problem for those of us who live here and had to deal with- because that violent period seriously impacted our neighbors and their jobs. It was heartbreaking and it still is. The jobs have not come back. American tourists are being replaced by Mexican tourists who don't spend as much or in the same ways. Rosarito wasn't built for Mexican tourists.

If we can keeping from being defensive- we can discuss the current situation and what needs to happen locally and in the world economy for Baja to hit it's stride again. Crime isn't even at the top of the list: The housing market downturn has crushed Baja real estate and prices need to be reset downward- just like in the USA. Nothing is selling but prices aren't dropping. The tourist attractions like Puerto Nuevo aren't seen as a good value- mostly because they aren't. The new passport requirement and long wait times to cross back are a big deal (passports killed the Rosarito Beach Spring Break draw completely). Although TJ and the Guadalupe Valley have great new restaurants- Rosarito and Ensenada is still a ghost town with many old favorites now gone. So what's the current draw or hook for tourism "We're still here?" My friends who refuse to come down here aren't afraid of being a crime victim- they afraid that if something does goes wrong there is no one you can trust to call for help- they don't trust the Mexican Police. I get that too.
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Last edited by Woooosh; 12-28-12 at 05:36 PM.
Old 12-28-12, 05:50 PM   #15
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

I sent the 2012 INM report over to Fulano: Sintesis2012.pdf

Thanks to Woooosh, Fulano has some more current information on the number of Americans living in Mexico. As Fulano reported in another post last year, the party line of over 1 million happy Americans living in Mexico is pure bullshit. The latest figures right out to the Mexican ministries that handle immigration matters, show that from January through November, 2012 they could only find 50,599 Americans living in Mexico on a non-immigrant, immigrant or permanent resident visa. The figures shown report not only new visas issued but all the visas that were renewed. Such visas are renewed every year. So, that is the sum total of all the Americans in Mexico with anything above the level of a 6-month tourist visa.



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Old 12-28-12, 06:00 PM   #16
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woooosh
So, that is the sum total of all the Americans in Mexico with anything above the level of a 6-month tourist visa.
I wonder how many "Sin Papeles" types are living in the border zones? More than just a few.
Old 12-28-12, 08:06 PM   #17
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Quote:
Originally Posted by DENNIS
I wonder how many "Sin Papeles" types are living in the border zones? More than just a few.
There are a large percentage of gringos in the TJ-Rosarito-Ensenada area living down here without bothering to get a visa. Many of them give me the excuse that they have never been asked for one - probably true. I've talked to several down here in our area that say the same thing. My guess is that as you go further south, more tend to get at least an FMM.

I think it's impossible to know how many there really are but I am certain it is fewer than the Secretary of Tourism suggests...
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Old 12-28-12, 08:48 PM   #18
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

I'm sure you're both right- the true number is far greater than the graph and less than the press releases. But it is a felony to live in Mexico without a Visa and I think most good intentioned people moving to Mexico follow the letter of the law, at first at least.

I would think the higher income requirements will keep some from renewing- so next year's numbers will look worse, although the people are still here. Just numbers. I can guestimate by the number of For Sale signs in my neighborhood what the percentage expat loss there is here.
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Old 12-29-12, 12:54 PM   #19
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woooosh
Sadly, the times have changed, especially in the last three or so years. You can't expect to not be a victim just because you aren't involved with drugs or the people who do. The owner of this board has not posted about his "incident" two years ago- but suffice it to say he and his wife did nothing to be beaten, throat slashed and left for dead in San Quintin. I appreciate those who love Baja wanting to project a positive image, but let's keep it real. If it can happen to Ron and Cristina- it can happen to anyone. It's a shame, but that is the truth.

I found a womans leg on the beach in Rosarito just two weeks ago. They found more of her on the beach last week. Not good. I don't harp on the negatives, but I'm not likely to let things get whitewashed or have innocent people blamed for being victims.
...and there were 26 people killed in sandyhook elementary. Damn those crazy gringos...crime happens everywhere...its just that mexico is a little more blase about random acts...at least guns have been removed from everyday individuals...if they have guns and they don't have military fatigues on chances are their up to no good.
Old 12-29-12, 07:57 PM   #20
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Default Re: Military checkpoint scared sh*it out of me

Quote:
Originally Posted by BohemiaBeerBash
...and there were 26 people killed in sandyhook elementary. Damn those crazy gringos...crime happens everywhere...its just that mexico is a little more blase about random acts...at least guns have been removed from everyday individuals...if they have guns and they don't have military fatigues on chances are their up to no good.
True but the reality is that we simply cannot expect the same level of response from law enforcement down here. That is the factor that tips the odds in the criminals favor unfortunately - it does resemble the old, wild west in certain ways.

What happened to Cristina and I was an isolated event in the sense that I doubt we will ever see anything like that again out on our quiet little stretch of beach. But the criminal element down here is always on the prowl looking for opportunities just exactly like that. There are nearly two thousand miles of beaches on the Baja peninsula and the likelihood of a similar attack on some remote beach down here is very likely IMHO.

We were lucky to have incredible neighbors who immediately came to our aid and chased the criminals down. I believe they would have been long gone by the time the police arrived there had not our neighbors bravely followed them for miles and were in contact with police by cell phone the entire time. The fact that our friends and neighbors saved our lives allowed us to later testify against them - something our attackers never counted on happening.

Under similar circumstances such as ours, I suspect the perps could count on getting away with it 9 times out of 10.
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